Thursday, April 20, 2006

Measuring the gauge

I knitted until I got about 2.5" long. BTW, I put way more stitches on the needles than I needed but that's OK because I'm just going to rip this and start knitting once I'm ready.

Grab a ruler. I have this neat little thingy that has a cut out for counting stitches. Most patterns want to you to knit a swatch large enough to get a 4" count. I'm only counting over 1" because my gauge is fairly consistent at this size and won't vary much over 4".

Note that my 8th stitch falls exactly centered over the 1" line. I'm going to count 1/2 this stitch. So my gauge is 7.5 stitches per inch.

Now that we've got gauge, I figured we'd use my pal Lucia's Sockulator to customize our sock size. Since I've got a short, stubby foot, I like to customize anyhow. We'll be making a slightly longer ankle than she's showing on this site because we should have enough yarn for it. We can always edit length as we go based on how much yarn is left when we get the length we want. Sockulator

DPN Tut part 2

You can just knit as normal from this point. You can count rounds by noting each time you come back around to your tail. I do the long tail cast on but if you use some other method, your tail might be on needle 2 instead of needle 1 like mine. Keep in mind that you should forget the needle numbers as soon as you start to knit the first round. Otherwise you'll get all corn-fyooosed.

A few rounds done....

Wednesday, April 19, 2006

CO for DPNs Tut

We're going to knit a swatch so we can measure gauge. I'm using sport weight so I needed to cast on more stitches for a swatch than you'll need to. I think that 40 stitches should be enough for you. But cast on one extra stitch. I'll explain that later. Cast on over 2 needles. Because socks need to be able to stretch around the top, two needles helps you make sure you're not casting on too tightly. Once you've cast on all your stitches, pull one needle out. If you're worried about stitches slipping off the other end, you can wrap a rubberband around that end while you're slipping from the back end.

We're going to slip stitches from the opposite end from your working yarn. Slip (as if to purl) stitches onto a second needle. If you bought a 5 needle set, we're going to put 10 stitches on each needle with one extra on the first needle you slip onto. I cast on a total of 61 and I have 5 total needles. I seperated the stitches in multiples of 15. The first needle I slip stitches onto, I slip on 16. You'll slip 11 (or whatever depending on how many total stitches... this is actually not critical since this is just a swatch). This is needle 2. Your CO needle is needle 1.

With 11 on the first needle, you'll slip one from the CO needle onto a second needle. In order to help keep from twisting the stitches when you join the round, we'll insert needle 2 into this first stitch as well

Now, continue to slip stitches until there are 10 total on needle 3, including the first stitch that has needle 2 inserted into it.

Repeat for needle 4.

Now, with all the bumps along the bottom of your needle, pull the yarn so that it's behind your work and turn so that needle 1 is in your left hand and needle 2 in your right. Slip one stitch off needle one with needle 2. We're going to pull one stitch from needle two over this slipped stitch (like a bind off) and then slip the stitch back onto needle 1.

Who? WHat? WHat town am I going to???


This is a place for Christine and Sachi to track their first KAL in their usual OCD style.

Note that I haven't gone through the trouble of doing much in the way of editing this template because I know Christine will go to town with that too. ;-)